Raissa Bretaña, fashion historian and adjunct professor of art history at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, says that from the 19th Century to the post-war years, tailormade suits were the norm for both working men and men of leisure – and, eventually, women of the same classes. “It was only in the later part of the 20th Century – when dress became more casual and democratic – that the idea of the ‘business suit’ became almost exclusively associated with white collar workwear,” says Bretaña.
Our obsession with business suits peaked sometime in the 1980s, with the rise of the ‘power suit’: the outfit that defined the ‘greed is good decade’ and communicated wealth and power even in pop culture, whether it was the movie Wall Street or the TV series Dynasty.
Back then, says Lisa Hayes, associate professor and director of Drexel University’s fashion design programme in Philadelphia, US, more women were wearing the ‘masculine’ jacket-and-slacks suit, because in male-dominated workplaces, women thought “if I need to sit in the boardroom across the table, I need to be a mirror image of [the men in the room]”.
But even as bankers, financiers and other white-collar workers poured earnings into sharp attire, a push toward more casual dress codes was already beginning.
It started back in the 1960s with ‘casual Fridays’ featuring blue jeans and Hawaiian shirts, and kicked into an even higher gear with the rise of Silicon Valley, the Zuckerberg hoodie and the idea that success didn’t need to come buttoned up in a suit and tie. Suits – which once symbolised professionalism – became associated with more traditional companies, as tech workers who trumpeted innovation redefined what a CEO should look like.
Even in the most formal of sectors like finance, dress codes have been somewhat toned down: in 2017, Goldman Sachs started relaxing expectations for its IT employees due to the “changing nature of workplaces” and made the policy company-wide in 2019. A 2019 survey suggested that half of US companies allow casual dress.
Necktie sales in the US hovered below $2bn (£1,45bn) in 1995, but sunk to $850m in 2014; between 2015 and 2019, the country’s suit market shrunk by 8%.
This broad trend has been reflected in the office attire industry, which has been in dire straits for years. Necktie sales in the US hovered below $2bn (£1,45bn) in 1995, but sunk to $850m in 2014; between 2015 and 2019, the country’s suit market shrunk by 8%. Suit sales in the UK had been steadily dropping every year since 2017. And the pandemic just sped these trends up. High heels sales plummeted 45% in 2020. Brooks Brothers, the 200-year-old US menswear chain that outfitted nearly all the US presidents and was a long-time fashion go-to for financiers, filed for bankruptcy last summer, after years of slumped sales.
The hybrid factor
Post-pandemic sales in the work-fashion industry probably won’t be helped by the fact that many companies plan to embrace a hybrid future – with staff doing some days at home and some in the office. Such a transition will have implications; staff will need fewer office clothes, of course, but more importantly, it would indicate a significant shift in employer thinking.
“I think people are going toward a more functional approach – what you get accomplished, not these formal rules about the number of hours you’re in the office, or how exactly you’re dressed,” says Robert Pozen, senior lecturer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology.
He suggests that the flexibility that will come in terms of office attendance might trickle down to what you’re expected to wear. “[Workers] don’t want some rigid dress code. There weren’t a lot of organisations that required ties and jackets before the pandemic on a daily basis, and so now you have even fewer – and the general movement toward a functional approach rather than a formalist approach.”
That may mean that you may only be wearing business casual a few days a week, when you actually go into the office – but even then, you might only need to “dress up” when you meet with people from outside the company, says Pozen: think clients, visitors or when you give an external presentation of some kind.
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